Ragam Tanam Margazhi
SABHAS GET COOKING ON SEASON SAAPADU
Canteens return with fewer covers, signature dishes and traditional recipes
Priya.Menon@timesgroup.com
15.12.2021
It’s early in the morning, but Venkatesan Krishnan is up and about. At 7.30am, he opens the doors to his sabha canteen in Mylapore Fine Arts. And as the crowd trickles in and swells to a packed house by lunch, he feels a satisfaction he hasn’t experienced in a long time.
“Serving at sabhas is something that I look forward to,” says Krishnan, who runs Sastha Catering Services in Porur. “Last year, I did run a canteen for the same sabha, but this year, it’s more vibrant.”
While Covid-19 saw sabhas conduct online performances in 2020, a few of them have opened their doors to live performances this year. And where there are sabhas, can food be far behind? That’s why they have got their favourite caterers to run their canteens for rasikas who are delighted to feast on the elaborate ela sappadu, delicious kasi halwa, and crispy keerai vadas followed by a cup of freshly brewed filter coffee.
“We serve a kalyana sappadu with 26 dishes and a different menu every day for lunch. And on January 1 and 2, we will have a special New Year saapadu that will be a mix of TN, Kerala and AP cuisines,” says Krishnan. Their signature dishes include elaneer payasam, palada pradhaman and chakka pradhaman.
“The canteen is open till January 3, 2022. People can pre-order and book through WhatsApp. We are also available on food delivery apps,” says Krishnan.
K Srinivasan, one of the proprietors of the Mountbatten Mani Iyer canteen, is happy to be back on the sabha circuit. They have been running the canteen at Parthasarathy Swami Sabha from 2000 to 2019 but were forced to take a break last year due to the pandemic.
“This year, we won’t be serving breakfast on weekdays, though tea and coffee will be available. On weekends, we may serve breakfast,” says Srinivasan. “The ela sappadu will continue, and in the evening, we will serve tiffin items like bajji, bonda and vada.”
Grand Chennai by GRT Hotels has tied up with Karthik Fine Arts to conduct the Grand Gana Sabha festival from December 16, 2021, to January 13, 2022. “Performances will be held in the hotel lobby from 7pm to 8.30pm,” says Elango Rajendran, senior general manager, Grand Chennai by GRT Hotels, adding that live performances will be held only on weekends, though sabha food will be available on all the days.
“We are also inviting residents to attend and experience the concerts and the food,” says Elango.
Sabha food, with a twist, will be served at their restaurant J.Hind. “We want to take traditional food to youngsters. It doesn’t surprise me when they ask what’s kambu dosa, or kuzhi paniyaram,” says Elango, adding that they also explain the origins of each dish. “For example, Ashoka halwa originated in Thiruvaiyaru, a panchayat town in Thanjavur district. It is a popular dish prepared during the month of Margazhi.” Other dishes include mullaikangal keerai vada, and banana flower fritters with chunky mustard and tomato.
The sabhas have also ensured safety measures are in place. “People have to show their vaccination certificates before entering the canteen,” says Krishnan.
Srinivasan says they plan to seat two people at a table instead of three. “It’s a challenge but we are glad to be back,” he says.