WHY YOUR FISH IS FISHY
As states from Kerala to Nagaland crack down on formalin-laced fish, here are some murky truths about middlemen and the machli biz
Nishanth Chandran ..times of india 22.07.2018
The fish you get served in most restaurants, or even what you buy from a nearby market or mall is almost definitely not fresh. Every year, for two months each, fishing is banned on the east and west coast. While the ban is in place on one coast, fish is transported there, and to other regions in the country, from the other coast mostly by train or road. Now, you know why the first few coaches of a train smell fishy.
At the earliest, it can reach its destination in 24 to 48 hours. But fresh fish, kept at room temperature, starts to rot in two hours. Refrigerated fish can stay good for three days. Hence, preserving fish becomes imperative.
Contrary to what most people believe, fishermen don’t contaminate their produce. It’s the middlemen who use formalin to prolong shelf life of fish. Most of us in the business know about this problem, and that’s why we set up a lab to test our fish.
After procuring it, the middlemen segregate fish, based on variety, cost, and the end consumer. The best produce goes to restaurants, then open markets, and the lowest category is sold to roadside fish mongers. You often see fish being sold on the beach and may assume that it’s fresh from the sea. It’s a gimmick. They are selling fish at least a few days old.
Let’s suppose a fisherman catches more fish on a Tuesday. But its demand peaks only during the weekend. So, the middleman quotes a rock bottom price and the fisherman has no choice but to sell. The middleman then stores the fish in a godown, and releases it only over the weekend.
Now, storing fish needs ice but it’s expensive. One kilo of fish needs double the ice to keep it fresh. Ice costs around Rs 3-4 per kg. And since it melts, it needs to be replaced approximately every eight hours. This works out to be costly for the middleman.
The other option is to hire a cold storage but that’s even more expensive. Formalin, on the other hand, is widely and cheaply available. A preservative for biological specimens, formalin keeps fish fresh for longer and a litre can cost as little as Rs 18. Formalin-laced fish looks fresher, especially the eyes, gills and scales.
Formalin is a 37% solution of formaldehyde, a classified human carcinogen. Fish preserved with formalin is unfit for human consumption. A 2015 research published in the British Medical Journal found that prolonged exposure to formalin — yes, it’s used to preserve bodies — puts funeral directors at a heightened risk for ALS, a neuro-degenerative disease.
In the fisheries business, we have seen that formalin is used more for preserving expensive fish, such as black pomfret and king fish. Cheaper ones, like threadfin and Indian mackerel, are less likely to be contaminated with this chemical.
— As told to Shobita Dhar Chandran is CEO of Tendercuts
CATCH 22
Middlemen hoard catch for weekends when demand is high
Ice is expensive and has to be replaced frequently
They use formalin which cost as little as Rs 18 a litre. Formalinlaced fish looks fresher
Mostly used to preserve expensive fish so buying cheaper varieties may be safer
As states from Kerala to Nagaland crack down on formalin-laced fish, here are some murky truths about middlemen and the machli biz
Nishanth Chandran ..times of india 22.07.2018
The fish you get served in most restaurants, or even what you buy from a nearby market or mall is almost definitely not fresh. Every year, for two months each, fishing is banned on the east and west coast. While the ban is in place on one coast, fish is transported there, and to other regions in the country, from the other coast mostly by train or road. Now, you know why the first few coaches of a train smell fishy.
At the earliest, it can reach its destination in 24 to 48 hours. But fresh fish, kept at room temperature, starts to rot in two hours. Refrigerated fish can stay good for three days. Hence, preserving fish becomes imperative.
Contrary to what most people believe, fishermen don’t contaminate their produce. It’s the middlemen who use formalin to prolong shelf life of fish. Most of us in the business know about this problem, and that’s why we set up a lab to test our fish.
After procuring it, the middlemen segregate fish, based on variety, cost, and the end consumer. The best produce goes to restaurants, then open markets, and the lowest category is sold to roadside fish mongers. You often see fish being sold on the beach and may assume that it’s fresh from the sea. It’s a gimmick. They are selling fish at least a few days old.
Let’s suppose a fisherman catches more fish on a Tuesday. But its demand peaks only during the weekend. So, the middleman quotes a rock bottom price and the fisherman has no choice but to sell. The middleman then stores the fish in a godown, and releases it only over the weekend.
Now, storing fish needs ice but it’s expensive. One kilo of fish needs double the ice to keep it fresh. Ice costs around Rs 3-4 per kg. And since it melts, it needs to be replaced approximately every eight hours. This works out to be costly for the middleman.
The other option is to hire a cold storage but that’s even more expensive. Formalin, on the other hand, is widely and cheaply available. A preservative for biological specimens, formalin keeps fish fresh for longer and a litre can cost as little as Rs 18. Formalin-laced fish looks fresher, especially the eyes, gills and scales.
Formalin is a 37% solution of formaldehyde, a classified human carcinogen. Fish preserved with formalin is unfit for human consumption. A 2015 research published in the British Medical Journal found that prolonged exposure to formalin — yes, it’s used to preserve bodies — puts funeral directors at a heightened risk for ALS, a neuro-degenerative disease.
In the fisheries business, we have seen that formalin is used more for preserving expensive fish, such as black pomfret and king fish. Cheaper ones, like threadfin and Indian mackerel, are less likely to be contaminated with this chemical.
— As told to Shobita Dhar Chandran is CEO of Tendercuts
CATCH 22
Middlemen hoard catch for weekends when demand is high
Ice is expensive and has to be replaced frequently
They use formalin which cost as little as Rs 18 a litre. Formalinlaced fish looks fresher
Mostly used to preserve expensive fish so buying cheaper varieties may be safer
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